Nishiki Market
Kiyomizu dera
Fushimi Inari
Kyoto Watazen Ryokan
I've waited SEVEN long years for this! The last attempt to visit Kyoto in 2011 was foiled by the untimely tsunami and ever since, this city has been on my "to visit" wish list.
Kyoto which means "Capital City" certainly has a lot to offer in terms of heritage and cultural experiences. There are many buildings and monuments that are preserved due to their rich historical values and these somehow bring out the rustic charm to this city.
There are at least 2000 temples and shrines in Kyoto, 17 of them being named as UNESCO World Heritage sites for historic monuments. What an impressive record! I would think one may need at least a week stay to visit all these sites. As we do not have the luxury of time, we selected the more popular sites to visit for this trip.
Being Japan's former capital city for more than a thousand year, the roots of geisha probably originated from Kyoto where young ladies performed for the imperial family. The once dying trade was revived by the book/movie "Memoirs of a Geisha". Now, everyone rushes to Gion Corner, hoping to catch a glimpse of any geisha.
There are many types of accommodation in Kyoto. We chose to stay at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) to experience the Japanese culture.
All that being said, we shall attempt to "conquer" Kyoto! Read on to find out if we succeeded.
So our plan was to check out from our hotel in Osaka, leave our oversized luggage with the concierge and bring a small luggage to Kyoto where we plan to stay for a night at a ryokan.
Upon reaching Kyoto, we will leave our small luggage at the ryokan first before any sightseeing activities. As the check-in is at 4pm, we will return to our room later.
The plan was to reach Kyoto by 10am. However, I had difficulties waking the father-and-daughter duo up (blame it on electronic gadgets!). So we were running a little behind schedule when we left Osaka at 10.30am.
The journey took us less than an hour and we challenged ourselves by commuting in one the world's most efficient, extensive and busy transport network.
And the following was our route
- Namba Station (Midosuji Line) to Umeda Station
- Walk to Hankyu Umeda Station (5mins)
- Hankyu Umeda Station (Hankyu Kyoto Line) to Karasuma
- Walk to Kyoto Watazen Ryokan using GPS
And finally we were on our way to Kyoto! Phew ~~~~~~
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| Work exactly like our EzLink Card |
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| The super grouchy girl |
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| On the train towards Kyoto |
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| Finally had the chance to wear our sunnies! |
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| Snooze time zzzzzzz |
We were lucky to have boarded the limited express train with fewer stops along the way. Upon reaching Karasuma station, we relied on the GPS to reach Kyoto Watazen Ryokan near lunchtime.
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| Kyoto streets |
Even though the room was not occupied by another guest, we were told that check in was only possible after 4pm. So we left our small luggage with the staff and went to explore Kyoto.
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| After many turns, we finally found our accommodation! |
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| Irasshaimase ~~~~ |
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| The lobby |
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| The front desk |
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| We were told that we "qualify" for a lucky draw |
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| And the prize ~~~~~~ |
First up, we need to satisfy our growling tummy! Yes - FOOD!
We headed towards Nishiki Market which was only 3 minutes by foot! This was also one of the reasons why I picked Watazen Ryokan. Yes - We need to be THAT near to food!
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| Nishiki Market behind us |
Known as Kyoto's Kitchen, Nishiki Market specialises in all things food-related. Think fresh seafood and produce, kitchenware and souvenirs. Most of the shops are family run businesses that was passed down from generations. The walkway are narrow and often packed with people (tourists and locals), so I would reckon pushing a stroller is not recommended.
Food choices are aplenty here - bento sets, snacks, street food, dessert etc etc.... Go with a hungry stomach (that's what we did!) and you won't be disappointed.
The Japanese generally do not eat and walk at the same time. They deemed it as bad manners - either dropping the food accidentally on the streets or leaving trash everywhere. So when they buy food from a stall that does not have a seating area, you can see the Japanese huddled up in a corner, quietly finishing their food and dispose the trash before moving on. But I guess tourists may be exempted. Just make sure you dispose the trash in a proper manner.
Now I shall let the pictures do all the talking.
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| Nishiki Market |
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| I promised to buy this doll for her after lunch But I forgot totally about it! |
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| Hungry!!!!! |
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| Fresh seafood |
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| Can hardly wait to eat! |
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| Fried chicken |
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| These fish cakes are super yummy! |
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| Unagi (Eel) |
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| Her expression said it all |
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| Candies |
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| Dried scallops |
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| Buttered scallops |
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| Getting the hang of it |
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| Yum Seng! |
The princess was asking for dessert after chowing down her food earlier. Then, we chanced upon a cosy little shop selling crepe! Perfect timing!
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| Guess the flavour the princess chose |
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| Tada! Strawberry! |
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| Nishiki Tenmangu Attracted by the beautiful lanterns at the entrance But we didn't enter as we were rushing off |
After dessert, we had to hurry to our next sightseeing venue - Kiyomizu dera (清水寺) which means clear water. Listed as one of UNESCO World Heritage Site, this Buddhist temple has been attracting hordes of tourists over the years. Definitely a MUST SEE in Kyoto.
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| Saw this interesting sign at a traffic junction My guess - no riding on bicycle when crossing the road Especially effective when placed on the floor as everyone is always looking down on their phone now. |
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| Please push your bicycle on foot when crossing the road |
We took a bus to Kiyomizu-michi bus stop and it's probably a 10min walk up to the temple from the bus stop. There are English announcements on the bus, informing passengers about the next bus stop name and information (like the nearby sightseeing spots). We relied on our ICOCA for our bus rides. The one day pass may be a better option if you plan to cover many places of interest in a day.
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| Waiting for our bus |
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| On the bus |
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| The quiet street |
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| I super love such traditional houses |
The walk up to the temple can be challenging. Think steep slope, endless flights of steps and uneven terrain, you will get what I mean. The only motivation will be the shops lined on both sides of the walkway selling food (yes!) and souvenirs. In this way, you can eat, take a breather and continue to burn your calories. Just be prepared to walk, I mean, walk A LOT! Wear comfortable walking shoes!
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| Many young Japanese ladies decked out in their beautiful kimono |
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| Too early for the bloom |
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| The "gangster" |
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| Interesting items sold at shops |
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| Ok ~~~~ Almost there ~~~~ |
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| Ice cream tasted even better in colder climate as it doesn't melt that quickly! |
I think it took us an hour or so to reach the temple grounds - interrupted by photo opportunities, food and shopping.
It was certainly crowded even though it was a weekday. We saw many young ladies in their kimonos. Not sure if it's a common sight or any special occasion.
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| We got our entrance tickets! |
Before entering the temple, you are supposed to perform a cleansing ritual by washing your hands and mouth. If you are not sure on the steps, just observe others before you. It's relatively easy. But be warned - the water is VERY cold!
Nevertheless, we were contended by just being there.
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| The princess was getting restless |
Down a long flight of stoned steps, you will be able to see Otowa waterfall. You won't miss it as there will be a long line of people. The waterfall gushes out clear water which flows down into three streams. This is where Kiyomizu dera (meaning pure water) gets its name.
Each stream will bring luck in different aspects. From the drinker's viewpoint, the stream to the left is for wisdom, the middle stream for longevity and the right stream for love. However, it's also believed that if you drink from all three streams or take more than one mouthful, the charm does not work. So don't be greedy! Just drink one gulp from one stream!
It's really up to you to believe it or not. We took everything with a pinch of salt and just drank from the first available stream.
There are ladles provided for visitors and each ladle are sterilised via UV lights each time they are returned back to the ladle holder.
After tasting "pure water", it's time to refuel our tummy (again?!) as we made our descent to the nearest subway station to head towards our next destination - Fushimi Inari shrine.
During our descent, we tried to locate the Starbucks along Ninenzaka street. It's the world's first Starbucks outlet with tatami seating area. So interesting right? But we just couldn't find it. Even Google map does not help. So we gave up and proceeded to our next sightseeing venue.
We realised when we went back home that we actually walked past it without noticing! <slap forehead> That goes to show how well-concealed the place is.
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| On the way out |
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| The plain looking but super yummy pork and tofu bao! |
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| The legendary Starbucks is just around this corner! |
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| It's a pity we didn't have time to visit this café |
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| Snack time! |
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| Happily singing on the streets |
We used GPS for the estimated 30ins walk to the subway station, eating and singing along the way. Hopefully the local residents were not annoyed by our loud voices.
Upon reaching Kiyomizu-Gojo station, we took the Keihan main line to Fushimi-Inari station.
The shrine is near the station. Not sure where? Just follow the crowd.
The Fushimi Inari Taisha, a Shinto shrine that worship the god Inari is famous for the thousands of vermilion torii gates that lined the trail(s) up to the summit of Mount Inari.
Inari is worshipped as God of rice which in terms translate to wealth in Japan. So many believers, be it rich individuals (who wish to be richer) or companies officials visit the shrine to pay their respects and offerings. The individual torii gates are thus donated by these people hoping for a prosperous future ahead.
On the front of the torii gate, the left side will show the name of the person or company who donated the torii and the right side will show the date it was donated. On the reverse side, you will see the words 奉納 meaning donation or offering.
Foxes are believed to be the messengers of the god, that's why we can see many fox statues in the shrine grounds.
Being a very popular tourist sightseeing spot, it can get very crowded and it's almost impossible to take a nice photo without being photo-bombed by other clueless tourists. So either be there very early before the crowd and wait till it turns dark. I personally find the night scene eerie, so we left just before it gets too creepy for me.
The street leading to the main entrance is lined with stalls selling snacks and souvenirs. When we left the shrine at 6pm, most of the stalls were already packing up. So do go early if you are keen to see what these vendors have got to offer.
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| You know you are on the right track when you start to see this |
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| Just follow the torii gate accordingly and it will lead you to the shrine |
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| The cleansing ritual |
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| So difficult to get a good shot without getting photo-bombed! |
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| The dates the torii gate was donated |
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| The donor names |
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| Even the train station has a fox image |
We only managed to climb one small section of the trail. It was getting dark and we were getting tired (and hungry!) by the time we left Fushimi Inari Taisha. The stall vendors were already packing up for the day (there goes my roasted sweet potatoes ~~~~). So we made our way back to our ryokan.
As we took the Keihan main line from Fushimi-Inari station to Gion-Shijo station, the princess exhausted her last ounce of energy and fell asleep on the train.
Upon exiting from Gion-Shijo station, we realised our wifi router was out of battery! Oh no ~~~ Our most reliable gadget couldn't have chosen a better timing for this. We had to rely on memory and gut feeling to bring us back to the ryokan. And it didn't help that we had to take turns to carry a 20+kg child on a cold windy night.
After what seemed like an eternity, we managed to locate our ryokan. Phew ~~~~~
(To read more about ryokan, click on my separate post)
Upon check in, we were escorted to our room and was surprised to find our luggage neatly arranged in one corner of the room.
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| We need to remove our shoes before entering the room and walk barefoot on the delicate tatami mat. The shoe cabinet is located at bottom right of the picture Slippers are provided for your usage. You can wear them anywhere except into the room |
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| Our humble room Low center table with tea set and snacks Western style sitting table on far end which can be separated by sliding door (but not sound proof) |
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| The alcove in the middle with a portrait and a floral arrangement |
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| Futons neatly kept in the storage area |
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| First thing she asked "Mummy, where's our bed?" |
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| Tea set |
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| Snacks And check out the old fashioned key! We left it with reception whenever we go out. |
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| Western style toilet The switches on the wall control panel were amazing! Can even control humidity in the toilet! |
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| Yukata and towels |
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| Amenities |
We declined the tea making ceremony offered by the staff and rested for a while before heading out for dinner.
We had dinner at the nearby Ootaya restaurant.
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| Selection of toys. Each kid's meal comes with a toy. |
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| She chose a hair accessory set |
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| Kid's meal |
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| Tonkatsu Set |
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| Chicken in Vinegar sauce Set |
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| Grilled Hokke Fish |
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| Breaded chicken in vegetable stew |
It was a hearty dinner indeed. The food was really good and the restaurant very kids friendly (to all parents' relief!).
After dinner, we took a stroll in the neighbourhood in an attempt to digest our food. It was a cold night with temperature dropping to 1 degree Celsius.
Besides vending machines, the next thing you can see everywhere are convenience stores! 7-Eleven, Lawson, Family Mart - just to name a few. I love visiting convenience stores for its bento sets, snacks and even desserts!
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| Ready packed food |
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| Bento sets |
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| Cup noodles/miso soup |
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| Coffee/tea selection |
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| Ice cream |
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| Yoghurt and dessert |
When we returned to our room, the futons have been laid out for us. We changed into our yukata and headed to the bath.
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| Let's go to the bath! |
It was our first time visiting the bath as well. Luckily, the bath was not crowded - there was only one lady who left the moment we entered. So we had the bath area to ourselves - not a bad start for a first timer to overcome the shyness.
While Mummy was inching her way slowly into the heated pool, my dear princess made a plunge straight into it! Oh my goodness ~~~~~~ Her entire body turned red immediately but she loved it!
It was a long day for us with all that walking and the soak did relax our fatigued muscles. We spent about 30 minutes in the bath before heading back to our room and slept like a baby.
<--- Japan Trip 2018 - Day 3 Japan Trip 2018 - Day 5 --->
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